FAQs

Got a question about laser cutting, CNC milling, or file preparation? Below, you’ll find answers to the most frequently asked questions.

About LetoLab

I bring your ideas to life through laser cutting, CNC routing and (computational) design. From scale models and prototypes to custom solutions, I combine creativity, precision, and craftsmanship to create something that perfectly fits your project.

Read more about LetoLab

At LetoLab, you get more than just your standard laser or milling work. You get a partner who actively thinks along with you, ensuring that your idea isn’t just executed—but truly brought to life.

What makes LetoLab unique:

  • Custom work with vision – I look beyond the initial request and help elevate your idea. Whether it’s optimizing the design, selecting the right materials, or improving efficiency, I’m here to refine and enhance.
  • Computational design – Smart algorithms allow me to streamline both preparation and production, enabling advanced techniques like flat-pack designs or pattern generation.
  • A personal approach – You’re not just an order number. You’re a person with a unique project. I keep communication clear and direct, so you always know where things stand.
  • Passion for craftsmanship – The machines handle the cutting and milling, but I ensure that everything runs the way it should. Years of experience with digital fabrication tools translate into quality results.
  • Flexible and solution-oriented – If something doesn’t go as planned, I keep going until we find a solution. I thrive on challenges and enjoy going the extra mile.

At LetoLab, it’s about more than just making things—it’s about collaboration and creating something we can both be proud of.

Laser Cutting

Simply put, laser cutting is the process of vaporizing material using light. Invisible light, to be exact—since we can’t see the infrared beam of a CO₂ laser. By focusing that light with a lens into a beam as thin as 0.1mm, an immense amount of energy is concentrated in one spot, instantly turning solid materials into gas.

Almost all organic materials, like wood, acrylic, rubber, fabric, cardboard, and felt, can be cut with a laser. A better question might be: What materials can’t be cut with a laser?

For example, metals. That’s not so much a power issue but rather a matter of wavelength—CO₂ lasers like ours simply can’t cut them. There are also materials that release toxic or corrosive gases when cut, like PVC or polycarbonate. That’s a no-go. Glass and stone-like materials are also out of the question, as well as ultra-dense materials like HPL.

The maximum thickness depends on the material’s density. Something ultra-light like polyester foam can be cut up to 30mm, while a dense sheet of birch plywood is limited to 6mm due to the tough glue layers, which make it difficult for the laser to penetrate.

If you need to cut thick, compact materials, the laser would have to work so hard that the edges would end up burnt or deformed. In that case, I’d recommend CNC cutting instead.

Here are some common materials and their maximum cutting thickness:

  • Acrylic (Plexiglas) – up to 10mm
  • MDF – up to 9mm
  • Poplar plywood – up to 9mm
  • EPDM, silicone or stamp rubber – up to 4mm

Our laser cutter has a working area of 130 x 90 cm. The bed can be adjusted in height, allowing for thicker objects (up to 15 cm) to fit under the laser head.

The front and back of the machine have pass-through slots, so longer objects like doors can be placed on the bed. If the entire surface of a large object needs to be processed, it can be fed through in multiple stages.

Preparation is key! Here are some tips to ensure your design is ready for perfect cutting:

  • Kerf (cut width): The laser removes 0.1 to 0.2 mm of material per cut. This is usually negligible, but if precision is crucial, it’s something to consider.
  • Avoid double lines: Make sure there are no overlapping lines in your design. The laser will otherwise cut the same path twice, causing burning or ugly edges.
  • Check dimensions: If LetoLab is supplying the material, always confirm the sheet dimensions. Some sheets are smaller than the machine’s work area, which could affect your design.
  • Smoke residue & reflections: Cutting generates hot smoke, which can leave marks on the material. The metal honeycomb bed can also reflect the laser’s energy, causing small burn spots on the underside. Some materials come with a protective layer, but if not, we can apply a temporary film to prevent this.
  • Save costs: The fewer cuts, the faster the job—and the lower the cost. Nest shapes efficiently to minimize material waste and remove any unnecessary lines.
  • Use colors & layer names: Want certain lines to be lightly engraved instead of fully cut? Assign clear names and colors in your file to indicate different processes.

Laser Engraving

Because a laser cutter’s beam can be switched on and off incredibly fast, it has a built-in function that moves the laser head across the material in sweeping passes—just like a printer. But instead of ink, it uses pure energy. This allows for razor-sharp text to be burned into wood, as well as detailed images, pixel by pixel.

Read more here and check out some examples.

Every material reacts differently to the laser:

  • Wood darkens with a warm, scorched effect.
  • Acrylic vaporizes instantly, leaving a clean, smooth finish.
  • Paper cuts fast and crisply due to rapid vaporization.
  • Stone gets a grainy, matte engraving by removing its top layer.
  • Coated aluminum reveals sharp, high-contrast lines.

Get inspired and explore examples of laser engraving.

Use these tips to get the best results:

  • Closed shapes: Make sure all shapes in your design are fully closed. The laser software only recognizes closed curves as engravable areas. Even a small gap can cause the laser to skip a section.
  • Images: If you want to engrave an image, reach out first. Not all materials are equally suitable, and some images work better than others. Test engravings are often needed to achieve the best results.
  • Details & lines: Extremely fine details may be less visible, depending on the material. If in doubt, test a small section of your design first.
  • Material choice: Each material reacts differently. Leather, acrylic, and aluminum require specific settings for optimal results. Engraving on glass looks completely different from engraving on leather, and softwoods behave differently than hardwood or bamboo. I can help you determine the best approach.
  • Prototypes: For complex designs or uncertain outcomes, a small test engraving on a scrap piece of material can prevent surprises.

CNC Routing

Think of a CNC router as a handheld router, but instead of being guided by hand, it’s computer-driven. This allows the machine to cut out precise shapes from materials like wood, plastic, or metal—complete with drilled holes, recessed pockets, or beveled edges. Perfect for custom work with clean, accurate details.

CNC routing is ideal for wood, including MDF, plywood, solid wood, bamboo, and cork. It also handles materials like Trespa (routed with a diamond bit for crisp edges) and plastics such as acrylic and polycarbonate.

For metals like aluminum, this machine is less suitable, but sandwich panels like Dibond (aluminum layers with a plastic core) can be processed with great results.

The machine can handle nearly all standard sheet sizes, up to 130 x 250 cm. The clearance under the router head is about 25 cm, so depending on the bit length, objects up to 15–20 cm in height can be processed.

With CAM software, a design is prepared for the routing process. Each type of operation requires a specific strategy and router bit. Here are the most common techniques:

  • Contour cutting– Cutting out clean shapes with precision.
  • Engraving – The router bit follows the exact lines of the design—great for grooves or decorative details.
  • Drilling holes – Instead of a router bit, a drill is used to create precise holes at marked points.
  • Pockets – Recessed areas cut to a specific depth.
  • V-carving – A sharp, angled bit creates detailed engravings with crisp corners, ideal for text and fine details.
  • T-slots – A special bit cuts T-shaped slots, useful for joinery or mounting systems.
  • Bevels & rounded edges – Specialized bits add chamfers, concave, or convex edges for a polished finish.
  • 3D routing – Material is removed in overlapping passes to create precise 3D shapes.

Before a design can be routed, proper preparation is essential. The first step is creating a drawing where it’s clearly defined which shapes correspond to which machining operations. Ideally, use multiple layers with distinct names and colors to keep everything organized. If your design consists of multiple separate parts, always check in beforehand so we can determine the best way to arrange them and ensure the right spacing. This way, your drawing will be perfectly prepared for the CAM software, which translates it into routing strategies and generates the machine instructions.

Submitting Files and Materials

At LetoLab, you won’t often hear “that’s not possible”—and that applies to how you submit your drawings as well. Just use the CAD software you’re most comfortable with. That said, here are a couple useful tips to ensure everything comes through correctly:

  • Illustrator: Make sure everything consists of lines, convert fills into closed outlines, and use only one artboard.
  • Convert all text to outlines.
  • Units: Use millimeters.
  • Layers and colors: Use descriptive layer names (e.g., Cutting, Engraving, Drillhole_d4, or Pocket_8mm) and choose clearly distinguishable colors.
  • Export formats:
    .dxf (preferably 2012 / Lines & Arcs)
    .ai (preferably v8 or earlier)
    .3dm (Rhino3D v5)
    .pdf (only if no other option is available, and if no text is included)

No worries, I’m great at deciphering rough sketches—even on napkins! If you only have a photo, I can trace it using specialized software. Need something based on an existing object? I can scan or digitize the outline. Whatever it takes, I’ll make sure your idea becomes a technical file my machines can work with.

In many cases, you’re welcome to supply your own material, but I can also take care of it. A lot is possible in consultation. LetoLab keeps small stocks of commonly used materials like MDF and acrylic.